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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.